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Occulter Group: Men’s Market New York/Paris

WWD Accessories Supplement October 2009

WILD THINGS
Photos by Thomas Iannacone
Accessories are going on a fantastical journey for spring, as organic materials and animal prints, walking a fine line between wild fantasy and natural reality.

“O’Ha” horse hair and leather cuffs in Ghost White and Flax. Purchase online or at In God We Trust boutiques.

The Selby / Vogue Daily Fashion / Cole, Rood & Haan

Photos from the Cole, Rood & Haan shoot available at TheSelby.com
For more information, coleroodhaan.com.

All those incredibly vertiginous shoes you’ve been teetering about in, willing yourself to be able to take another step, praying you don’t go down to the ground quicker than you can say ankle fracture? Please. Take them off. The flat, sensible shoe is here to the rescue—an update on the classic men’s wingtip, and a step on from the jazz flats of the past summer. The latest company to go down to earth? Cole Haan, who this past week threw a party in a SoHo loft for new line Cole, Rood & Haan, which launches this fall. (It’s what the company was called before Mr. Rood passed away, and his partners decided to just use their own surnames.) There was a distinct look of relief on the faces of Jessica Joffe and the like who were trying on styles like this, a high-shine aubergine lace-up; $350. (There are also utilitarian ankle boots and beaten-up deck shoes.) Of course, that relief could have been down to the fact that on exiting the party, they weren’t going to have to navigate the steep wooden staircase to get to the street.

—Mark Holgate

Read Full Article on Style.com

Love the Black Sheep

Dazed and Confused digital coverage of Theft of Light by Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons and Pamela Love at Milk Studios. Read More…

Spring 2010 Presentation at Milk Studios

On September 16th of New York Fashion Week, Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons presented at Milk Studios alongside Pamela Love to debut their respective Spring 2010 collections. Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons unveiled it’s “Theft of Light” collection as well as a limited edition collaboration with Love. The collaboration, aptly named “The Mammoth Talon Cuff”, is a take on Love’s signature sterling Talon Cuff, now elevated with hand-carved fossilized Mammoth ivory claws, scrimshaw edition numbering, diamonds, and engravings.

The video below highlights selections from “Theft of Light” and ” The Mammoth Talon Cuff”.

To read descriptive annotations on this video, please view as full screen or on youtube.com

Special thanks to Pamela and her team, Nico, Christine, Ryder Robison and the amazing Spoke Visuals team for making such an incredible installation — Genga, you rule.

Odyn Vovk & Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons Spring 2010 Runway

9/9/9 @ St. Mark’s Church, East Village, New York City. Photos provided by Scoute.org

“Hexagonal Animal Viewer”: Sterlings silver, seven 160x quartz Stanhope lenses with dissected honeybees. One of a kind.

“Una”: Twisted Horsehair, leather and leather cuff.

“Havataneo”: Braided horsehair, leather and sterling sliding necklace.

“YIKSA”: Leather and vintage ivory harness • Limited Edition of 7.

“Tasunke”: American horse hair tassel and sterling necklace with “wolf mother” charm.

“Chogan”: Leather and vintage ebony harness. Limited Edition of 7.

“O’ Ha Double Rope” Braided horsehair, leather with brass hooks.

“Tasunke”: American horse hair tassel and sterling necklace with “wolf mother” charm.

“Tasunke”: American horse hair tassel and sterling necklace with “wolf mother” charm.
“O’Ha”: Braided American horse hair cuff with leather.
“Doba” Double leather cuff with snaps.

“Tasunke”: American horse hair tassel and sterling necklace with “wolf mother” charm.
“O’Ha”: Braided American horse hair cuff with leather.

“Nascha”: Distressed leather and painted vintage ivory. Limited Edition of 7.
“Una”: Twisted Horsehair, leather and leather cuff.

Odyn Vovk / Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons SS10 Video

Refinery29: Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons Channels Tribal Spirits for New Collection

Dark and ingenious, local accessories shaman Derrick Cruz of Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons always manages to throw a couple of devilish curveballs. Just like past collections, Cruz’s new “Theft of Light” line uses the same formula of brooding, outré designs and unlikely materials to create a parade of new, daring works. This time, though, Cruz’s catalog of horsehair bracelets, ebony and ivory keys plucked from vintage pianos, and Navajo-influenced leather strapping has a poignant edge. “Theft of Light” is a tribute to Cruz’s father, Jose, who died this year at 57. A bit of a cross-cultural creative himself, the senior Cruz had moved from Puerto Rico to Colorado, created a traditional Native American craft studio, and eventually earned membership in a local tribe. To Derrick Cruz, the collection and its lookbook are, “illustrations for a chapter in my personal book of myths.” For us—as emotional as that all is—the Navajo ivory breastplates are just damned cool.

WWD 2009 Accessories Issue

The Bone Collectors

It’s a slightly macabre moment for several emerging jewelry designers who prefer anatomical elements to glitzy gems. True, the skull-and bone trend has been around and continues to thrive—see Luis Morais’ glammed-up wares. But Pamela Love and Lady Grey’s Sabine Le Guyader and Jill Martinelli take the motif a step further by casting actual remains—human teeth—in gold, silver and bronze. Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons’ Derrick Cruz, meanwhile, offers an ashtray from human jaw cast in bronze and plated in gold. Love works with claws, bird skulls and teeth, all of which she finds “spiritual,” while Martinelli and Le Guyader, both of whom worked in dental offices as teenagers, bonded over their fascination with teeth as students at the Massachusetts College of Art. Still, they’ve branched out: Their most recent work includes a bib necklace of cast mink bones. “In some of Prague’s old ossuaries from the 1800s, they built huge chandeliers out of human skeletons. The arrangements of bones…and casting them in metal can become very beautiful,” says Martinelli of their inspiration. Love acknowledges the edge of it all: “Obviously, aesthetically it’s kind of tough and cool, and people like that. But I also feel like it’s bringing you back to nature, in a way.”